It came across that way, I'm afraid, as of late, you've made a number of posts where you appear to be attempting to dismiss the advice and views of others by both stating or trying to imply that they're jealous (I honestly cannot fathom why) or poor, as if this somehow has an impact on what they're saying. The "I'm sure they make fine cards that fill a market niche." line is another example of this - it comes across that way.
Please stop trying to troll. It's not a good look, especially when you're making such laughable claims as that.
Funny - I consider Verbatim to be a 'budget brand' for media. It's still banded though - so a step above generic.
Mmm - wasn't trying to troll. I truly believe Verbatim to be a borderline near-generic brand. Generally cheap in price and quality. Maybe it's a regional/US thing.
Heck, they weren't even included in Tom's Hardware SD card charts in either year that they were run:
Searches on Amazon.com for items stocked and sold by Amazon.com. Search term is ManuName 32GB SDHC. Example Verbatim 32GB SDHC. Then select down on the bottom left of the page for Seller = Amazon.com.
Amazon.com lists 3 items to search: Verbatim 32gb sdhc cards.
Amazon.com lists 157 items to search: Sandisk 32gb sdhc cards.
Amazon.com lists 18 items to search: Patriot 32gb sdhc cards.
I'm sure they make fine cards that fill a market niche. But, quite frankly, I do not consider them to be a top quality card.
Statement of an opinion is not a troll attempt.
If I have misunderstood your intent, then I most sincerely apologise.
Statement of an opinion is fine, but when it comes across as what appears to be insulting or deliberately trying to invoke a negative reaction, it crosses a line.
Now hang on a minute, what have I done to warrant this aggression, and the aforementioned apparent snide remarks from some of your previous posts?
Now, would you care to talk about how you and a few others seem hell bent on telling people that no card that can write faster than a class 4 could possibly be of any quality? And how anything other than the brand that you yourself own would clearly be using inferior chip sets? There are three of you who jump on every SD card question thread and spout out this nonsense with absolutely no proof or evidence to back your claims.
I have never said any such things. Perhaps you should try reading what I've actually written, instead of taking it as some sort of attack against inanimate objects, or, as I'm getting the impression here, on your purchasing choices? I've made no judgements on any object or any person, but it would appear that you're taking offence on their behalf.
It is not nonsense, in my case, and I don't feel any need to provide a bibliography of citations and proof when it's all been documented on this forum and the one at GP32X in the past - this would make it more trouble than it's worth to try to help people, and it would just be plain unrealistic to do.
All I have ever done, is point out that some types of cards can be problematic*, and also put a great deal of time and effort into making sure I know my stuff about fakes so that I can advise others of their dangers. Aside from issues relating to fakes, I simply advise from personal experience of legitimate, expensive cards, purchased from legitimate, well-known retailers (for example, Verbatim is one of the world's biggest producers of blank media of all types, a division of Mitsubishi; And Amazon, the retailer from which I make all SD Card purchases, is a very famous and reputable online store) that unfortunately turned out to not work correctly, in spite of their branding, origins, price, and place-of-purchase.
*However much you may want to convince yourself otherwise, this really is true, and is an observable fact when you have two cards of the same brand, model number, and everything else, but which came from different batches and one of them happens to have a very different controller to the other. Some controller chips are made to emphasise certain qualities for particular very common mainstream uses, and they are not suited to certain other uses - for example, a great many are designed only to be used with the FAT32 format, and will cause some big issues if you use anything else. The problem, and what I keep noting, is that you usually cannot tell what a given manufacturer is using, because the vast majority are "restickering" brands who use what they have on hand for any particular batch, even in cards that are ostensibly "the same". Thus, as I've noticed you comment on before, you get things where you will have certain cards that have been listed as problematic in the SD Compatibility List, but will never encounter any problems with them yourself because your particular unit(s) don't contain the same hardware as those owned by the people who added them to the compatibility list.
I assure you, I am not and have never been "hell bent" on anything, nor have I ever claimed that cards faster than Class 4 aren't of good quality, or claimed that everyone should use what I use and that everything else is bad. In fact, the only time I say anything is when people are having issues that are quite common with certain probematic controllers that mostly occur in Class 6 and Class 10 cards that you cannot readily tell the presence of due to the aforementioned issue of many brands using different controllers per batch, and all but two times I have been correct.
That you've taken my good-natured advice to mean I am "hell bent" on "spouting out nonsense" and claiming that others' purchasing choices are inferior to my own says much more about you than it says about me, I'm afraid.
I don't know who the other three people you're lashing out at here are, but to be honest, it all sounds much more like you've imagined other people's advice to be some sort of an attack claiming inferiority on you and your SD Cards, and are lashing out accordingly. If this is not the case, then again I sincerely apologise, but it is certainly coming across that way.
I'm glad that you've got cards that suit your needs.
To my personal experience, the faster writing cards (class 10) also are the faster reading cards.
To be honest, myself, I don't care about (and have never and would never try to advise on) read speds - I just need a card that reads and writes safely, and which doesn't have a controller that corrupts small writes and devours the contents of the file that was being written to. I've encountered those in fast, big-brand, expensive cards, unfortunately, and since I did not need the extra speed, I abandoned that approach.
That's correct! That's precisely what to do, and is the basis for my advice relating to the times when in spite of this, things can go wrong with legitimate, good-brand cards.
If you purchase a regular brand from a reputable dealer, the odds are pretty good of your getting a solid card.
That's correct, again. As mentioned earlier in this post, it's something that I've spent a great deal of time and effort on building knowledge of. What you seem to be missing is that sometimes, legitimate, high-quality cards from well-known brands can contain legitimate high-quality controllers that nonetheless are thoroughly unsuitable for certain usages or even certain file-formats. These controllers are more commonly found in "fast" cards, often Class 6 and Class 10. It is this that it is important to raise awareness of.
We have all seen the reports of, "The class 10 32GB SDHC card that I bought off of an auction site with the ink-jet-printed label sticks in my card reader and is corrupt..." Disreputable people will always market shoddy goods as if they were in the top of the quality spectrum but somehow miraculously they're priced at the bottom end - that's how they get people to bite. Nobody is going to go through the trouble of creating counterfeit 2GB class 2 media - it would be like counterfeiting pennies - more effort than it's worth.
That's my advice, also. But as stated above, that doesn't always mean that there won't be problems outside of faults, which warranties quite simply will not cover.
So, my advice is to purchase a solid name-branded media from a reputable store that is large enough to purchase their product directly from the real manufacturer. At that point you have solid warranty support and are highly unlikely to get a faulty card.
Your experiences may varry.
But just because you haven't seen something yourself or just don't know about it, doesn't mean that something is mythological or non-existent, or made-up by people who you have imagined are jealous or poor.
No, there's no real need to worry, per se. The problems with Kingston cards arise because Kingston is a "restickering" brand, and that the hardware within their cards - specifically, the controller - can vary from batch to batch, and this sometimes leads to controllers unsuited to certain less common use-cases (such as running an operating system from them because they corrupt and devour small files/fail on small writes) being used. The majority will never run into these issues, as many cards won't have those particular problematic parts.
Ooer. I'd never looked at that sd card compatibility list before - until now I've used all Sandisk cards which have worked flawlessly - but I had intended stuffing the 32Gb one I got with the Pandora once things had matured enough to put in the effort to do it right. That card is a 32Gb Kingston class 4, came with my machine round about this time last year. Should I be worried?
Edited by Prometheus, 05 April 2012 - 05:39 PM.